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A Turkish Doughnut Maker Whose Sweets Honor the Dead

For one Istanbul confectioner, distributing fried dough balls as memorials is not just a job. It’s personal.

Β© Rena Effendi for The New York Times

Niyazi Dumlu handing out lokma, a kind of Turkish doughnut, from his food truck near an Istanbul mosque in November.d

A Turkish Doughnut Maker Whose Sweets Honor the Dead

For one Istanbul confectioner, distributing fried dough balls as memorials is not just a job. It’s personal.

Β© Rena Effendi for The New York Times

Niyazi Dumlu handing out lokma, a kind of Turkish doughnut, from his food truck near an Istanbul mosque in November.d
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